
I spent a few days in Kagawa, the smallest prefecture in Japan and my fiance's hometown. It's about eight hours and five transfers from Fukuoka by train. The meeting with the family went well, and I was happy to see this side of Japan. When Kagawa does get tourists, its usually busloads of Japanese eager to try Sanuki Udon, a dish famous in that area.

Kagawa is comprised of a large city and several towns and villages like this. This area was particularly rural.


It was served by a couple of train stations. The first is Sue Station:

The second is Takinomiya.




I thought the town was really charming, and it had at least one thing in common with a town you might find in Pennsylvania: though it was rural and in the middle of nowhere, they put a huge shopping mall right in the middle.



Aeon is apparently ubiquitous throughout Japan. The mall was pretty nice, though, and had a huge grocery store, three floors of shops, a movie theater, a McDonald's, Mr. Donut, loads of other good restaurants. And a coffee shop:

They're putting in an electronic's store across the street. One interesting feature of Aeon and of a lot of restaurants and stripmalls in Japan was that they're islands in huge parking lots. This is a layout you'll find a lot in the US, though in Korea shops are usually stacked on top of each other, with a parking garage underneath.
In Kagawa's capital, Takamatsu, is the large Ritsurin Koen (栗林公園).




Takamatsu is a city of 670,000, I guess considered small, but I liked it. It was the first city in Japan we really visited, and a feature it would share with the others is that its downtown pedestrian shopping area is covered by a translucent roof. You can see that the streets weren't too busy this Monday.


Takamatsu is on the Inland Sea.


Across from Takamatsu Station, a short walk from the pier from whence those two pictures were taken, is "Symbol Tower" and a new shopping mall.

When taking the train from Okayama to Takamatsu you pass over the Great Seto Bridge. At 13.1 kilometers long, it's the world's largest two-tiered bridge. I tried and failed to get nice pictures of the sunset over the islands.


We also spent time in Kyoto, visiting among other places the Temple of the Golden Pavillion.

And an old movie set.


Then a day in Osaka.






And okonomiyaki, a regional specialty.

I was impressed by these cute messages below the puppies on display at an Osaka pet store.

I have teeth that could hurt you. but that I choose not to bite you. Remember before you hit me.
And
Talk to me sometimes. Even if I don't understand your words. I do understand your voice when it speaking to me.
And
My life is likely to last 10 to 15 years. Any separation from you will be painful for me.
And
You have your work. Your entertainment. and your friends. I have only you.
And we went to Himeji, to see Himeji Castle.


You'll find a few more pictures on my Flickr page. I got the "Look! Funny English!" and the "Ooooh, it's so exotic!" crap out of my system when I first came to Korea, so you won't find many photos like that in this gallery. A few other points:
** I didn't exactly look hard, but I checked about ten ATMs in a number of different cities, and didn't find one that would let me use my international debit card from Korea. Has anyone else had any experience with that? I've been able to use mine in China, Taiwan, Vietnam, Hong Kong, and the United States. Good to know that when I go back to Japan I'll need to bring a full wallet.
** To my surprise, Japan wasn't that expensive. It's possible to spend money, I'm sure, but you can also eat a good meal on a budget. In Osaka, especially, there were tons of options for lunch for 500 yen (about 5,000 won). We had hotels in downtown Kyoto and Osaka for roughly 80,000 won. More expensive than a Korean love motel, sure, but even cheaper than what you'd pay for a tourist hotel in Jeollanam-do. Where the money does add up quickly, though is with transportation, but as somebody from the United States, I'm used to paying for food, transportation, and accommodation. I recently looked into booking a room near my alma mater for next month, and was surprised to see that rooms in this rural Pennsylvania town are between $100 and $130 a night.
** Both in the hotels and in her parents house I was surprised to see we had about seven channels on the television. I didn't go to Japan to watch TV, I'm just sayin'. In the morning I caught some of the morning talk shows, and the hot topic all week was Noriko Sakai, an actress who disappeared with her son after her husband was arrested for drugs.
Most media coverage painted her as an embarrassed victim of a bad husband, but things have changed since her husband told police that Noriko was also a drug user. Police have issued a warrant for her arrest, and the media has begun to air any bit of information they think might support the case against her.
Some of this information includes a tattoo on her ankle and a streak of color in her hair in a 2007 interview.
** For those interested about the swine flu front, when I was at the ferry terminal in Fukuoka, I was given a quesitonaire about any symptoms I might have. I filled it out, but when I arrived in Korea there was nobody to collect it. My fiance wasn't given one, so I don't know if this was handed only to foreign-looking foreigners---she looks Korean, swear to God---or what, but it was printed in both English and Korean. When I entered the terminal in Busan a man gave me a quick scan with a handheld device, presumably to check my temperature, and then I was waved through.
** Whoa, Japan has Wendy's. I'm saving that for my trip back home, though. Japan also has Freshness Burger. Actually, I was surprised to learn it was a Japanese company. I've eaten it a few times in Korea and like it, though it's a little expensive.
** Here's something that caught my eye in the Saturday paper.


Good price, though. R.O.K. Sojourn recently wrote that foreigners who make fun of Koreans' bad English are A-holes. While I agree that constantly harping on ridiculous English is unbecoming of a teacher, people who insist on using a language they don't understand, and who seek to profit off of an English that often veers into the nonsensical and vulgar deserve the mockery they get.
** In a related item, please learn to spell the name of your country on your immigration paperwork.

Maybe it's just shy around foreigners.
All in all it was an excellent trip, and I look forward to visiting again. In conclusion, Japan is a land of contrasts. Thank you for reading my essay.
23 comments:
Great pictures Brian :) And yes, I suppose Japan wouldn't be as expensive since you stayed in more rural / non-Tokyo areas. Sounds like fun - I look forward to anything else you write about Japan :)
Hi Brian,
I really liked this post. Julianne and I have been talking about making a trip to Japan this fall--this just makes it more likely seeing all the photo ops and interesting stuff.
I've been skeptical of people who say Japan is expensive ever since I did research on everyday items and have talked to a few people who have spent time in Japan. If you don't go out to expensive restaurants every night, and partying and boozing it up, etc, it's not all that different from Korea in the big scheme of budgets and saving money/paying off students loans . . .
I thought the second sunset pic was pretty good. Just thought I'd throw that in there.
I'm curious--what's the biggest cultural difference you noticed about Japan in comparison with Korea?
One book I have, from 1997, says that a Big Mac costs $6 in Tokyo. Maybe that was a function of the exchange rate, or something, but I made a point of checking the menu at a McDonald's in Osaka, and the cost was no different than you'd find in the US.
The hotel rooms we got were clean, relatively cheap, but small. Little more than a bed, really. It would have been tough for somebody---or a couple---with some large luggage, and would be difficult for large people.
I forgot to mention in the post that it was a relief to walk around and not deal with "heLLOOOO!"s and catcalls. It throws into contrast just how absurd that is in Korea.
I don't know much about Japan so I'm not sure about the biggest cultural difference, but one thing that jumps out is how the two deal with their crowded countries. In Korea, people basically do whatever they want in public and deal with the crowds by tolerating others' noise, tolerate getting bumped on the street, etc. In Japan people cope with the crowds by trying to avoid upsetting other people: no pushing, no loud noise, no shouting. My fiance's friend observe that Koreans seem to like being around each other, whereas Japanese like their space. The Korean dream home is a fancy apartment, whereas Japanese would like to own their own house.
If I were going to Japan without a Japanese speaker, I'd definitely need to do my homework, especially regarding transportation. I don't think I could manage all those transfers on my own.
I love Japan. Not including the short time living there, I've been back and forth between there and here about 25 times or so.
Been to Takamatsu, too. Nice area, but also the location of a notorious eikawa (hagwon) there, too. Probably the worst one in Japan.
Oh yeah, about ATMs. Most are not on the Plus/Cirrus networks, so they won't work with international cards. Post office ATMs will and so will CitiBank ATMs, but Japanese banks in general will not.
Oh, and bring cash... many banks and hotels won't cash your traveler's cheques either. I had a hell of a time the one trip I took TCs. Won't make that mistake ever again. Cash and credit cards only.
I have been to Japan many times and I love it. The Japanese are a super nice group of people. I went to a cool bar/dance club in Osaka a few times. Every girl that I spoke to danced with me or talked to me. They didn't turn away in disgust or ignore me as happens here. They all had smiles and even if they didn't speak English, they were kind. They didn't seem to care that anyone was looking at them talking or dancing with a white guy.
Brian, do you think living in Japan is in your future?
Was the bad-ass coffee really bad ass?
Did you have takoyaki in Osaka as well?
nb, I'd like to. I'll be in Korea for a little while longer, then it's back to the US. But to be honest there's nothing really attractive about the US to me anymore, save for some of the food, college football, and of course my parents. But I'm not confident about the country's long-term success. The plan now is to head back to the US next year, find some work, and take it from there.
If I do move back to Japan, it would mean getting back into teaching. I never loved teaching in Korea, but it's something I've learned to like, and it's a good way to make a living. If I saw myself getting back into teaching I think I'd complete an online Master's so as to make myself as professional a teacher as possible.
itchy: We didn't try the coffee, and we were on sort of a limited food budget. That means, so much to eat, so little time. We had takoyaki in Gwangju, at the kimchi festival, so we were after something new.
Nice pics! Himeji castle is a great tourist grab. Osaka-Nara-Kyoto is very convenient and affordable, and I would do it again. I even liked the hotel breakfast - grilled fish and soup - that was part of the junket so much I would eat it everyday - well I nearly do. Even my wife thought it was the optimal combination of modern convenience and history tourism.
Great photo/essay. I've also only been to Japan once, for five days, to Tokyo with a day-trip to Kyoto. So the Golden Pavilion is the one place where our trips intersected.
My favorite story of Japanese politeness is also from Kyoto. We were in a taxi entering the train station there; and I swear I saw a female passenger in another taxi bow to our taxi after her driver squeezed in ahead of ours.
I liked Japan much more than I thought I would. You are so lucky, Brian, to now have a chance to learn, really learn, Japanese. I hope you take advantage of that!
I'm totally with you re the U.S. The only things I miss are the food (which is unhealthy anyway), football, and my (small) family. And the future is definitely in this part of the world.
I recently discovered Freshness Burger at 부대 (PNU) in Pusan, and like it a lot. I didn't know it was Japanese. Sorry for such a long comment.
I had to look up where Takamatsu was - I've never been to Shikoku, but my sister lived in Japan for two years and I made a few visits - I also did a trip seeing Himeji, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka (and a few other places). Good fun.
The taxis were quite expensive in Japan - much more so than in Korea, and perhaps more than Canada as well - but mostly it seemed in line with costs in Canada.
Anyways, I enjoyed the photos. They may prompt me to look through mine. Oh, and okonomiaki-muira in Hiroshima is awesome - an entire set of buildings devoted to okonomiaki restaurants.
When my wife and I decided on the spur of the moment to take the boat to Japan from Korea 2 years ago, we had little cash on us. And when we attempted to use my credit card (issued in Australia) to buy a train ticket to Tokyo, they said it was declined. I asked them to try again, and it was declined again, saying not enough funds. I ran up to the hotel we stayed in for the night (above the train station in Fukuoka), rang my bank, and they said they there is plenty of money in it. They also told me there were two attempts of buying something that happened 20 minutes earlier, but the company never went through with the transaction. Weird.
So I went down to the train ticket office, and said that I just rang my bank,m and was told there was enough money, so try my card again. This time they said that it wasn't declined, but they wanted to ring their credit company, who then rang my bank to assure it was me. Finally when everything checked out, they permitted the sale on my credit card.
After a bit of investigation, it seems that companies will blankly tell you your internationally issued credit card is declined, when in fact, they just don't want to deal with the extra checks they have to perform to validate the card.
Beautiful pictures!! I'm a retired teacher from El Paso. I read your blog everyday to get updated on the latest in Korea. My wife and I live in Yeosu. Back in May we went to Japan for a weekend on a Lotte tour for W498000 each. I thought it was a bargain. It included meals, ferry transportation from Pusan to Fukuoka and hotels. When I saw Japan, I thought I was in Northern California, with lots of Japanese cars, beautiful clear skies, shopping centers, etc. The tour was in Korean, but my wife explained what was not self-explanatory.
Keep up the good work. I'am a fan.
rb
Great pics, Brian. How did you enjoy Japan? I've had an unexpected week off sprung on me in ten days time. I might consider going to Japan, I've always wanted to visit Nara.
D'oh Nara-Kyoto-Osaka - the Kansai region - I'll probably head there if I go to Japan.
"If I saw myself getting back into teaching I think I'd complete an online Master's so as to make myself as professional a teacher as possible"
--This is a very nice perspective coming from an English teacher. Kudos
-- and seriously, your photography skills improved a lot :) I like the perspectives and angle
-- Its good you enjoyed your trip to Japan as well as how the people treated you. I can say that they are very nice people. I have experienced working with both Japanese and Korean people, and based on my objective and unbiased assessment, both are the same..you'll encounter bad ones and good ones, largely dependent on the kind of people (quality) you meet as well as how you as a visitor behave.
I just got back from a visa run to Osaka today, and it was my first time to Japan as well.
The ATM thing was a disaster, as the Citi Bank machines were being repaired or something. When I got there, there must have been 150 people waiting to use it. I left and got some noodles but when I came back there were twice as many people down the entire block.
I found most things to be expensive (I was thinking about the cost of everything in Won), but food and my hotel room were affordable.
Having spent about a year in Korea, it was a curious feeling walking the streets. I loved that so many people use bikes. Plus, it's nice to have streets that follow a grid system and buildings that seem to have a higher standard of construction quality. And it was wonderful to see the freaky hairstyles and clothes on the young people.
It's funny how Korea still pervaded my perceptions when I was there: the Museum of Oriental Ceramics was full of Korean celadon, and I was quick to notice a Lotteria and some soju in a convenience store.
I would never venture a broad cultural comparison based on so little time, but one thing I realized when back in Seoul is that people on the sidewalks in Osaka were more self-conscious about being in one another's way. If I was walking swiftly, I could easily maneuver my way by. In Korea, I'm often miffed when someone ambles in my path or, far worse, just stops dead in their tracks in a street full of people.
Anyway, nice pictures. I considered going to Wendy's but they didn't seem to haves Frosties, so I passed.
arvinsign,
When were my photography skills bad? ;) I'm curious. Lately I've been using a little Samsung I bought at Home Plus. I'm not terribly satisfied with it, but, well, it does the trick. The pictures are more for me, anyway, than for the public.
I've always felt my pictures were all right, but then again I don't have a professional eye. I compare everything back to when I had to rely on disposable cameras, or when I got my first digital camera, a $35 model from K-Mart that came with a 128 MB card.
I told Jason on my Facebook that I might eventually spring for a big camera. I figure I take enough pictures, why not try to make them as best as possible. BUt to be honest I like the convenience of these little point and click digital cameras. I'd consider investing in a top-of-the-line model, but right now I don't know anything about photography and don't even know what all the settings mean on the Samsung. I guess that'll be my homework.
The taxis are insanely expensive! Had to use them in one town unfortunately since the hotel was a little bit aways and it was a small town without much public transportation.
Hotels can be expensive in Japan if the budget ones get booked up and mid-range have to be considered. Probably should have booked the hotels more ahead of time than I did. A month ahead is probably good in peak season, though in slower times perhaps not.
Though, there is lots of accommodation in Japan so perhaps its good to just try and wing it and search for a love hotel?
I share your initial cultural observations, people are way less pushy in Japan, I was surprised and pleased by that. Also way less spitting. As soon as I got back to Korea the swarms of pushy ajummas and shopping carts being rammed into me commenced once more.
Japan is definitely a nice place to visit!
@ Brian
-- LOL..i dont mean that :) all the previous photos you posted are not bad actually, its just that the last batch of photos (Japan) are way way better. I should say that im really impressed considering the fact that it was from a p&s( point and shoot).
"I figure I take enough pictures, why not try to make them as best as possible."
-- I agree. I have 1 SLR and 2 P&S, and the convenience of point and shoots is unparalleled, however it lacks enough features to make creative shots. I think in the end, its really about the photographer's imagination, than the gear itself.
Keep shooting :)
UDON - movie 01http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQUdYSV0NF8
Kagawa.... the udon country
2~17
[url]http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=leftmice&view=videos[/url]
my husband and i had a heck of a time getting money when we were in japan this summer.
our korean debit card worked with no problem when we went to japan feb. 2008 but it didn't work this time.
we went to several atms and two banks and it finally worked in a 7 and i holdings (7 eleven) atm. we used our card only at 7 and i holdings' atms from then on and we were fine.
but that was in tokyo and they may not have 7 and i holdings all over japan.
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